Tuesday, February 26, 2008

You Are What You Plant

It's often been mentioned, and now proved, that there is a high correlation between the features of dog owners and their pets. Think it's all delusional bunk? Well, after visiting this site you'll realise that the folklore is far more believable than first expected.

Which got me thinking. How similar are gardeners to their favourite plants? Are they like 'peas in a pod'? (Pun totally intended!) Would you walk around the garden admiring the flowers and saying things like.."Oh, that rose looks just like Aunty Jean" or "this hibiscus bloom reminds me so much of my neighbours accented jowels". Possibly not.

So I decided to *scientifically* observe some gardeners and marry their facial features up with their favourite plants. And what better place to start than by using some of the top users of Blotanical. It made sense because here we had pictures of each gardener plus I could view their favourite flowers in their Plot.

Then it just became a mere routine to match them up with their favourite blooms.
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Monday, February 25, 2008

Converting Unused Space Into A Practical Greenhouse

Ever since I began gardening I've had this nagging desire to have my own greenhouse. A place that was dedicated purely for propagating plants and storing them in some form of recognizable arrangement. Yet I've never had the chance, or the space, to construct one.

Even with our smallish suburban plot I found I was once again limited to making compromises. However, this time I was committed to seeing the 'half-full glass' rather than the 'half-empty' one.

And, Voila! Here is the logical outcome.

This is the side of my shed. Not any side, mind you, but a North-facing side - very important for us southern hemispherean gardeners! It's main purpose is to keep the other 3 side walls erect (and gives somewhere for the roof to hang on to as well). Apart from that, it's just a thoroughfare for the wood pile at the rear.

Look closer and you'll begin to be inspired by the possibilities. Here is a wall pleading to be utilised and so I consented by erecting some framework for future shelving.

What about the cover, I hear you ask? Well, here is the genius... One of the problems with our climate is that in summer it gets far too hot for far too long. So I couldn't just construct a standard greenhouse or all the plants would sizzle in summer and die. Therefore I needed another option and it came quite suddenly and somewhat divinely - in other words I can't remember how I came up with it!

I plan to have two types of cover - clear plastic sheeting for the cooler months and UV-resistant shade cloth for the warmer ones. Both of them will be made as single, continuous sheets that can be taken off and put back on again.



Here's how they will be attached;
  1. Steel REO bars - approximately 2m long - will be concreted 500mm into the ground opposite the shed wall and on the other side of the 2m wide path. They will be spaced out at 1m intervals requiring 6 for my 5m long shed.
  2. Channels will be sown into both the clear sheeting and the shade cloth at similar intervals wide enough for 20mm PVC pipe to travel through - much like a tent would work.
  3. Then brackets will be attached to the roofline at the same width intervals and will hold the PVC piping.
  4. Once these things are in place it's simply a matter of pushing the PVC piping through the channels on the cover and placing one end through the roof brackets and the other over the vertical REO bar. This will create a half-dome effect.
  5. As the seasons switch the covers can be interchanged to turn the greenhouse into a shadehouse and vice versa.
It's a very simple system but will provide me with the space to grow a quantity of plants both for use in the garden and also for experimentation. I'll keep you updated with progress photos.
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Sunday, February 24, 2008

Caring Your Bougainvillea

Caring for my bougainvillea has been a journey in foolishness right from the start. In essence it was more about my lack of respect for this plant that almost bought it undone.

My disrespect for bougainvillea began as a result of myths I had heard from other gardeners. Their 'wisdom' expressed that these plants needed very little to care to help them grow and once in the ground would virtually look after themselves. Their comments were partly right, but there are a heap of things that gardeners can do wrong to ensure these plants won't succeed.

Our faux pas was to plant it at the same time as many other plants in our new garden bed. I had trellised some wire along the fence to give it some support - which was good - but then inadvertently planted some faster growing plants in front of it.

It wasn't until our front garden makeover that we discovered this plant even existed having not seen it for nearly two years. The amazing thing about this bougainvillea was that while it had been ignored, hidden and competed against, it still survived. Sure, it didn't grow and it never flowered - but it was still alive.

So, this season I decided to ensure that this battler of the warmer climate garden was permitted its far share of growing opportunities. And it has not let me down. At the beginning of spring, some five months prior, it weighed in at a little taller than 60cm. Today, it has surpassed the top of the 6ft fence and has branched out along some of the trellis wire. Plus, it is even flowering.

And not to get too confused with the semantics, the bougainvillea picture above is not of its flower. Its merely the colourful bracts that we all admire. The flower is hidden inside and is quite small and insignificant.

So, what changed in the care that I gave this plant that allowed it to succeed?
  1. It started to get some light - the lack of sunlight is the reason most gardeners never enjoy the colourful bracts flourishing on the bougainvillea. If yours, and this one wasn't, isn't getting at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day then forget ever seeing colour on this climber. Cut away competing branches to let some light in or move your bougainvillea if you must.
  2. I removed its competition - while bougainvillea is a fast-growing climber, it will struggle to get the water and nutrients needed if planted with other vigorous fast-growers. If similar speedy plants are grown near it you will need to ensure that top-ups of soluble fertiliser and required water is added.
  3. I changed my attitude - caring for a bougainvillea wasn't high on my list of things to achieve in the garden. I expected that once it was planted it would take care of itself. And while that is predominantly true, I have had far more success this season while nurturing it than in the past couple of ignoring it.
While I failed to care for this bougainvillea in its early life - and had there been a Department for Plant Cruelty I'd be punished severely - it has been most forgiving. I look forward to sharing more pictures with you in the coming years - and maybe a story of how it took my appreciation for granted and took over the garden completely! Who knows?
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Saturday, February 23, 2008

100 Plants Which Every Garden Should Have

Val Bourne from the UK's Telegraph has boldly gone where no other garden journalist would dare tread - creating her list of the Top 100 Plants Every Garden Should Have. The reason it's bold; a list of must-haves is incredibly biased to personal choice. Not to mention that many of these plants aren't available for most of the world's gardeners or they won't grow outside of the UK's climate.

All that aside, this is a great list and if you've some spare time to indulge in a little garden porn then flicking through the gallery of each plant is worth your while.

Val has broken the Top 100 down for each season. Eryngium giganteum, Knautia macedonica and Astrantia major 'Roma' for the summer garden while Galanthus 'S. Arnott' and Perovskia atriplicifolia 'Blue Spire' will brighten your winter blues. Not to mention 25 must-haves for both Spring and Autumn this list of 100 is sheer delight.

BTW - just for the record, of the 100 plants Val listed I only have a solitary 1 growing in my garden - Gaura lindheimeri. I feel so inadequate (sniff!..)
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Friday, February 22, 2008

Your Wild Bird Feeders Are Making a Difference

Most gardeners install bird feeders for the sheer pleasure of having wild birds enjoy their gardens. We plant bird-friendly plants, keep cats and other nuisance pets locked up and even make the effort to keep trees in our gardens for them to keep out of harms way.

Yet it appears that by installing wild bird feeders in our yards is having an even greater impact than we first assumed. It is, in fact, giving them a greater chance of survival.

Sure, this may seem an elementary observation. Of course feeding birds is going to help their chances of survival! Duh! However, for reasons that we may not initially contemplate, feeding wild birds is helping them breed better as well.

This article reporting on research from the University of Exeter clearly demonstrated that birds that are fed throughout the winter months are more likely to lay earlier - and lay more. It also showed that the parent birds were more robust and able to deal with their fledgling chicks.

However, calls from the other side of the equation remind us that this could be a problematic practice. Fears are held that migratory birds will face increasing competition from winter-fed wild birds. But this very argument seems more like the 'playing of God' than real concern for either bird camp. Which one should have the upper-hand? The migratory birds who've just enjoyed their sojourn in warmer climes feeding their faces on plentiful food supplies or those who stuck around scavenging for a morsel to remain alive?

Needless to say, while many have argued that bird feeders are ruining wild birds from their normal hunting, it now appears that we are helping them survive. And this is a good thing.
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Thursday, February 21, 2008

Hydrangea flowers are our soil's litmus paper

When we talk about hydrangea flowers which part of these extraordinary blooms are we referring to? Do we mean the large ball shaped flower seemingly suspended about a salutary bunch of offset leaves? Or, are we suggesting the individual colourful bracts that make up the whole?

Actually, hydrangea flowers are neither the massive dome-shaped bloom or the bracts that make it up. No. hydrangea flowers are the minutiae encased within the tonal bracts. But let's not be semantical!

So for this post we're going to take the view that hydrangea flowers are the dome-shaped blooms that catch our eye the moment they unfurl. And for the most part we're going to be looking at why their colours differ so vastly even when they are grown on the same bush in the same location.

H.macrophylla is the most common of the hydrangeas - probably the one your grandmother grew in her garden. It's responsible for many cultivars and differ in flower colour from heavily pigmented blues to pinks and reds and every shade in between. The bushes, mostly grown as perennial shrubs, can also range in size from 1-3m in height and similar width dimensions.

What I like most about hydrangea flowers is their ability to change colour. While a chameleon will change colour to fit in to its current habitat, hydrangea blooms change colour because of their habitat - namely their soil pH.

We've all heard the legend that adding some rusty nails to the soil surrounding your hydrangea will turn the blooms blue. In effect, this is quite possible as the rusty metal will increase the soil's acidity and alter the hue of the blooms. However, I'm not sure that putting rusty nails into the garden is a positive enhancement. It's great if you know exactly where they're located and how many you emptied into your garden. It would be disastrous for your children to find them before you did - and they found them in the bottom of their little feet!

Rusty nails aside, there are ways to alter the colour of your hydrangeas and this is where they become the litmus paper for your garden. Ours, for example, is delightfully pink - the colour demonstrating an alkaline soil - and it makes sense because our rhododendron planted next to it is struggling (R.'s appreciate slightly acidic soils).

Changing Hydrangea colour Pink!
If you're blooms are mostly blue and you'd like a change then the goal is to alter the pH of your soil. Note: achieving this in containers is far simpler than trying to make this happen in your garden soil - but it's still very possible.

Raising the pH level means adding lime - dolomitic lime to be exact. A few handfuls over the soil surrounding your plant every 3-4 months should ensure that the pH balance raise beyond 6-6.5. If your soil is a clay-based loam you may find that every 6 months is more appropriate and for sandy soils possibly every 2-3 months.

Changing Hydrangea colour Blue!
Blue hydrangea flowers are the seemingly be-all-and-end-all of the bloom colours. Our desires far more favour trying to reach this colour than the pink. Fortunately it's just as easy to achieve, but again you'll have more success in a container than your own garden soil.

To increase the acidity of your soil in favour of blue flowers you will need to add some aluminium sulphate. It's not a hard trace element to get hold of and most nurseries would stock it. The application would be as per the producers directions but usually a teaspoon or two in a 9l watering can would suffice. This is then applied to the plant during its growing season.

If your soil is as alkaline as mine then you might want to consider beefing it up with some home-made compost well before the season starts. Even mulching your hydrangeas with lawn clippings would be a helpful practice.

If you're looking for more resources on hydrangeas and how to change their colour try this site.
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Wednesday, February 20, 2008

A Challenge to the Gardening Blogging Community

Bloomingwriter's blogger, jodi DeLong, issued a challenge to the gardening blogging community to show where they are on the world's stage. Well, here I am in beautiful Busselton, Western Australia.

Busselton is a coastal town 220km south of WA's capital city Perth. With a mere 24,000 residents it's not exactly your bustling metropolis. But it does cater for most things and if we can't get it here, then Bunbury, a short 52kms north, makes up the difference.

For climate and gardening conditions, Busselton is second to none. Even with Austin's 18 garden bloggers they still fall far short of our blog per capita ratio of 1:24000 (Austin's is more like 1:83000) which proves that we are far more into gardening than this US city would let on.

Basically, Busselton is built on a flood plain 2m above sea level. The hills that surround it provide the necessary water for many of our low-lying wetlands and is diverted away from the town through a flood-mitigation program. Much of the water runoff also leeches into the soil and refills our vast Yarragadee Aquifier. This aquifer is the source of all our water consumption.

The town's history was born through the shipping of timber from Geographe Bay. While the bay is a safe harbour it's very shallow and required the building of an almost 2km long jetty. Shipping ceased soon after Cyclone Alby tore through the region in the early 1970's and the jetty has now become a tourist attraction and the source of much contention to who will foot the bill for maintenance.

Chookie from Chookie's Backyard asked about info relating to our founding 'amateur botanist' Georgianna Molloy. While there's much written about this great pioneer you will get a very different story about her from many people who live in Busselton. Whereas she should have been honoured for her gardening work she is reasonably vilified for introducing the arum lily to our moist wetlands. All because she thought they looked wonderful in her English garden back home.

Gardening in Busselton is not as easy as it seems though. Sandy soils that leech nutrients faster than a greyhound on race day and soil alkalinity from the ocean's salt, take their toll. But once the soil's been built up with rich humus there's not a lot that won't grow in this environment. Hot summers reaching into the mid 30's C and mild winters with minimum's still above 0° C ensure gardeners don't give up easily.
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Tuesday, February 19, 2008

The Water Garden Landscaping TIps


There are a lot of new trends surfacing in gardening, and water gardening is one of the new interests. Water gardening can include waterfalls, ponds, streams and fountains, all of which can be combined with lighting, plants, and fish. Water gardening need not have a pond or natural water source moreover, it could be a plastic tub, plastic lined shallow in the back yard or, almost anything that will hold water.

An important consideration in planning a water garden is the choosing a location. Plants and fish both need plenty of sunlight, places in direct light away from trees and bushes are the top places. This will also help prevent leaves and debris from collecting in the water.

When planning for a water garden the next step is to choose the size you want. This depends of course on the resources you want to dedicate to it, how much money and time you are willing to spend. A water garden can be expensive if you go for a big garden filled with plants, rocks, fish, and lights. Also think about your property's size, which will also affect amount of time you'll spend maintaining your water garden.

Aquatic pond plants can be free floating, submerged, or marginal. What type you select is a matter of aesthetics and preference. Some plants are known for their scents, some for supplying oxygen keep the pool healthy, and some are just picturesque. Remember that the plants should only cover about half of the water, especially if you have fish. Fish are not only nice to look at; they're beneficial in that they help keep debris at a minimum and help in controlling larva and other insects.

One of the big challenges in water gardening is maintaining water free of algae. Algae problems are usually the result of nutrients in the water from feeding fish too often or over fertilizing plants. By cutting back on feeding and fertilizing, adding more plants, putting in a pond filtering system, or replacing the water with fresh water, algae is easily controlled. If a pond is constructed correctly and maintained properly algae problems can be kept at a minimum. All garden pools, no matter the size, require some maintenance during the year. With proper planning you can create a healthy equilibrium between living and decorative features of a water garden that can almost care for itself with simple maintenance inputs from you.
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Monday, February 18, 2008

Planning Your Flower Garden

by Lisa Sousa

You've wanted a flower garden for such a long time. They just add so much color and interest to your yard. You have waited in anticipation through the winter to start digging a place for a flower bed, purchase and plant your bulbs, seeds or plants, and to reap the many benefits of a well cared for flower garden. But maybe you need some tips and ideas for getting started. Here are some helpful hints for you to get going on that special gardening project.

It is wise to plan out your flower garden before getting your flowers. The fist step is make a sketch of your house, garage, trees, and any other buildings or landscaping on your property. An important consideration is the direction your property is facing as well. You don't want to plant a flower garden, and then find that it doesn't get enough sunlight for the flowers to grow. Flower gardens are also best when planted on a level or gently sloping ground because the water runoff from steep slopes will cause the soil to erode.

Another thing to consider would be the style of flower garden that you would like. Flower gardens can be straight or curved in shape, formal or casual. Your house can be a guide on deciding on your particular style. For example, if you have a traditional house, then a symmetrical, formal design might be for you. If you have a country-style house with gingerbread trim, then a less symmetrical and more casual planting maybe for you.

The next step in planning your garden is to decide what kind of flower beds would be desirable to your yard and you. A flower border is set against a backdrop such as a house, shrubs, or the edge of your patio as well as other places such as property edges. This choice of flower bed is a good option for those with smaller yards. Another type of flower bed which will work well with bigger lawns is called an island bed. An island bed is a flower bed that is planted in the middle of the lawn itself so it will give the effect of a splash of color washed up on the lawn itself. It is best to plant the taller plants in the middle of the island and to have the smaller plants around the them so they will look great on all sides. It is advisable though, to avoid making the island too small and having it made in the middle of the yard when the yard is otherwise empty.

When digging your flower bed, be sure to consider the width of the flower bed, so that it will be wide enough to accommodate the front, middle and back layers, and provides enough room for your plants to grow. As a rule, the longer your flower bed is, the wider it should be as well. Most flowers need well drained soil, so it is advisable to avoid locating your garden where there is standing water after heavy rains or during a spring thaw. The exception to this woud be when plants that can tolerate boggy soil conditions are desired. You should take the sun exposure into consideration as well because this is key to your garden planting. Some plants like full sun while other love shade

After the flower bed is dug up, and the landscaping is in place, the next thing to consider is the plants themselves. Do you want to have color throughout the year or only in certain seasons? Do you leave town in certain times such as the mid summer? If this is often the case, be sure to obtain flowers that are low maintenance during those times, such as mid summer or that bloom in the springtime. Flowers that bloom in late summer, as well as a few shrubs and trees that provide great autumn color can also add beauty to your garden through out the year if year round enjoyment is desired. Light-colored flowers, evening-scented plants, as well as garden lighting, can make your flower garden into a pleasant evening retreat after a long day at work.
Now for the fun part of planning your garden begins. The overall color of your garden is very much based on your own personal tastes. However, there are a few guidelines to follow. It is not a good idea to add too much contrast or too many colors to your flower bed due to the fact that these colors will cancel out each other and will give a visual overload. However, if the contrasts are used in moderation, it can add some spark. Colors can also reflect mood as well as the seasons themselves. Hotter colors such as reds, oranges and yellows work very well in mid summer, while the soothing effects of lighter, pastel colors go well with the springtime of early summer. Or perhaps you would like a single color garden is more to your tastes.

With careful planning and preparation, you can create a spectacular spectrum of color and fragrant scents right outside your door for you and your family to enjoy.
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Gardening Tips To Keep Your Garden Beautiful After The Winter Months


Some simple gardening tips to keep your garden tip-top after the winter months. Sometimes getting into the garden and doing the simple things will be most beneficial to your garden.

February has lived up to being a cold and windy month (for most of us). However, with all the changes in the weather recently, who knows, we might get a heat wave soon. This is a good time to take stock and check the condition of trees and shrubs.

Recently planted stock should be checked to make sure that they are still firm in the ground. The frosts can kill the roots if exposed. If they are too unstable, support them with a suitable stake. Also make sure that existing staked trees don't have their ties too tight.

The cold frosts can be your friend too. If you have heavy clay soil you should dig it over leaving it in big lumps. Pick a dry day when the soil itself is not too wet. A lawn that is prone to inadequate drainage will benefit from aeration. Ideally use a hollow tined fork (although an ordinary garden fork will do). This will remove small plugs of soil to a depth of about 6 inches, which can then be incorporated in the beds. If using a garden fork push it in to the full depth of the tines and wiggle it back and forth to leave holes. In each case immediately brush washed sharp sand all over the lawn, which will fill the holes. The area may look messy when you are finished but a shower of rain will soon clean it up.

Lawn Maintenance
DON'T FEED OR CUT YOUR LAWN YET.
Any reputable gardener will tell you that feeding your lawn too early will do it more harm than good.

Feeding the lawn causes fresh new young growth, which would be damaged by frost. The first feed should be no earlier than April and should be a lawn sand with a low level of feed, just enough to act as a tonic for the grass. Let it start the new season gently. Also don't be tempted to cut the grass yet even if it started growing during the recent warm spell. Frost damage could again result.

Being a gardener is one of the most enjoyable experiences you can have. But remember to keep doing the simple things.... Your garden will pay you back for doing it.
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Sunday, February 17, 2008

Tips For Your 'Full of Bulbs' Garden


Want a successful garden? Try planting bulbs into your landscape. Flowering bulbs are not only easy to grow and popular among garden plants, but they can fit into nearly any type of gardening style. And with proper care, bulbs will continue to bloom year after year. Flowering bulbs make lovely additions to any garden, especially when planted in groups or mixed borders.

Bulbs are widely available at most garden centers; however, most of the more spectacular ones need to be purchased through mail-order catalogs or nurseries that specialize in these types of plants.

Actually, ordering your bulbs through catalogs or obtaining them from nurseries can provide many benefits. Since bulbs are dormant, shipping them is easy and done so according to their appropriate planting times. This means all you have to do is simply stick them in the ground. There's no worrying with keeping particular bulbs stored elsewhere until needed.

The quality of your bulbs from a mail order company is normally better, too. They are healthier and picked for you by experts; whereas, picking them yourself may not always be easy, unless you know what to look for.

When selecting bulbs yourself, try choosing only those that are firm. You don't want any soft, withered, or blemished bulbs as these will not produce a healthy plant.

Always consider your landscape prior to planting or choosing bulbs. Observe your surroundings, taking notes as to the types of plants already growing within the landscape.

Choose bulbs which will thrive in your particular area and climate. Check reference books, labels, and packaging for the bulb's hardiness requirements.

Consider the color, bloom time, height, and compatibility of the plants you want to grow. You want to select bulbs that will offer significant blooming throughout the seasons with plenty of ongoing color year-round.

Mix them up with a variety of annuals and perennials as well as interesting foliage plants such as hostas and ferns.

Proper planting of bulbs will keep the garden full of blooms through the seasons and ensure healthy, vigorous growth for years to come. Place your bulbs in the ground as soon as possible; otherwise, keep them stored in a cool, dry area. Bulbs are normally planted well before the ground freezes in the fall or after the planting of perennials, annuals, and other plants in the spring.

Both winter and spring bulbs require a dormant period in cool temperatures in order to stimulate their growth and development. These types of bulbs include crocuses, cyclamens, tulips, daffodils, snowdrops, and hyacinths. Generally, these bulbs are hardy enough to be left in the ground throughout the year; however, your summer and fall bulbs may require lifting.

Gladiolus, begonias, dahlias, and autumn crocuses fall into the summer bulb category. These bulbs are usually considered to be quite tender and cannot survive in excessively cold environments. Spring is normally the best time to plant these bulbs. After the first initial frost, they should be dug up and kept in a dry, frost-free area.

Regardless of the type, bulbs prefer and thrive in light, well-drained soil. To improve the quality of your soil, you can easily work in some sand and compost. Make sure the site you choose for planting does not stand in water at any time as this will ultimately cause your bulbs to rot. Larger bulbs are planted about 8 inches deep; while the smaller ones can be placed about 5 inches in the ground. However, the lighter the soil, the deeper the bulb can be placed. Always place the bulb with its point facing upward. Water generously after planting, but take care not to drench the bulbs. Cover with a layer of mulch.

Flowering bulbs make great companions for woody plants, providing the landscape with an array of sizes, shapes, and colors. As spring bulbs die out, you can add various annuals and late-blooming bulbs, like lilies, to keep these areas of the garden looking their best. Adding an assortment of perennials into the bulb garden will provide a nonstop procession of flowers and foliage.

If you want to try a naturalized effect with your bulbs, take them by the handful and gently toss them out into the yard or garden. Plant the bulbs wherever they land.

If you want to test out different plant combinations before incorporating them into the garden or you simply don't have a lot of space for one, you can grow your bulbs in a container. A variety of bulbs can thrive in containers, and when mixed with annuals, you will have a beautiful miniature garden. Choose a container that has sufficient drainage and line it with pebbles. Add some potting soil and a few bulbs and annuals. Keep the container moist but not too wet.
If you follow these tips, pretty soon you will have a bulb-o-licious garden.

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Saturday, February 16, 2008

Tips For Easier Garden Care


Gardening is an enjoyable leisure time activity for many and it can be quite easy to see the fruits of your labor bloom all summer long. Although gardening can be simple and rewarding, that doesn't mean that you won't have to put some hard work into it. There are times when gardening can be a lot of hard work!

In this article, you will learn about how you can get ahead of your gardening tasks. Keeping up with the chores and being organized and prepared can make you're the whole thing much easier.

Start feeding your soil. You need to start a healthy soil before you can grow healthy plants. You should also remember that healthy plants have fewer possibilities to succumb to disease. You should make sure your soil is perfect at the beginning of the season and then fertilize all summer as needed for each type of flower you have.

Using organic fertilizer is the best course of action. Other fertilizers may kill all the beneficial organisms that are essential for plant growth. Organic is better for your plants and for the environment as a whole.

To get healthy vibrant plants, make sure you plant them in a spot where they will be happiest. Plants that need direct sunlight must be placed in a spot where there is an adequate source of sunlight. Plants that need large amounts of water can be placed near a spot that has an abundant water supply.

You should also remember to choose plants that grow profusely, reseed or come back every year. Choosing plants like this can cut your gardening time in half. There are plants like sedums and astilbes that grow in any season. It is easier and even economical, because you do not need to change it every season.

A large garden is fun, but a smaller garden will be easier to manage and will require less of your time. You can also make some container gardens which are easier to control, water, and maintain.

All plants need consistent watering so consider installing dripping irrigation so you do not need to water your plants by hand everyday. Make sure that you only drip enough water for your plants and avoid over watering as standing water in the garden can invite disease as well as make some plants get droopy and sick.

To add beauty to your garden and keep down on weeds you can add mulch to it. Mulch not only looks good but keeps the soil and plants cool. It also retains moisture so you don't have to worry so much about watering your plants.

To make the job of gardening easier, invest in some good gardening tools. A rocker chair and knee pads are a must. Make sure you have the appropriate tool for the job and remember, a cheap tool will probably make you work harder, so go for the best quality you can afford.

Happy gardening!
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Friday, February 15, 2008

The Rose Gardener Tips


Rose gardens are probably the most popular type of garden in the world, ranging from Marie Antoinette's famous gardens before the French revolution to a few shrubs tucked in a tiny backyard. With their wonderful scents and lovely blossoms, it is no wonder these surprisingly sturdy plants are so popular. After all, no other flowers are used as frequently as roses to symbolize love and friendship. If you'd like to grow beautiful roses in your yard, try a few of these simple rose gardening tips.

1. Roses need to eat regularly, just like any other living thing. Start feeding your roses before you even place them in the planting hole by adding a scoop of compost.

2. Use specially formulated rose food to help your roses really bloom. If you prefer organic methods, give your roses each a small scoop of Epsom salts, a banana peel, and some rotted compost. They will absolutely love these homegrown garden remedies.

3. Roses need to breathe. Be sure you don't allow other plants to get to close to your roses. Keep weeds away from the base of your roses with a 2 to 4 inch layer of rotted compost or chip mulch, but be sure you don't place these weed barriers right against the rose's stems.

4. Mulch also helps keep your roses from getting too dry. Mulch retains water, so your roses need to be watered less frequently during the summer months.

5. Trim out dead wood. Rose canes that are brown and dead may even be harboring insect pests, so remove them immediately. Always make a clean cut instead of crushing the canes as you remove them.

6. Prune out canes that cross over other canes. Those sharp thorns damage the rose's outer skin as easily as they snag your hands. Always prune a cane above a bud that faces away from the inside of the plant. This bud will react to the pruning by sending out a new shoot.

7. If your roses are infested by aphids, spray them with insecticidal soap.
8. Always remove pruned canes and spotty leaves from the ground. If you don't, any fungus on them will re-infect your roses when there is a heavy rainfall.
Finally, the most important rose gardening tip may just be to wear long sleeves and thick gloves when you are working with your roses. A rose thorn can really hurt, especially if it becomes deeply embedded in your hand.
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Thursday, February 14, 2008

Ideas For Your Vegetable Garden


The first year I lived in a "real house" I was excited to get a garden started. I just couldn't wait until spring when I could plant all kinds of veggies. While this seems like a good idea, it really wasn't. Being a new gardner, I let my excitement get the best of me. Luckily, part of my family made sure I still had a very nice garden that year.

Here are a few tips I learned:

1. Make sure you have enough room Some plants get bigger than others, and take up more space. Make sure you give certain plants more room than others, and plan enough sunlight for smaller plants. I've had smaller plans die in previous years because they eventually end up in the shadow.

2. Start small Don't plant everything you can find. Ask your local gardening supply store what will work best in your area for beginners. Tomatoes work best where I live, but don't work well in other areas.

3. Start with plants, not seeds Instead of throwing seeds in the ground, start off easy buying plants that are already started. They have been started at the right time of year by experts, and are much easier to grow.

4. Know your time limits If you can only devote 10mins per day to your garden, make sure you only have a few plants. Pulling weeds can quickly become a problem, so if you have limited time don't make a big area that will take a long time to weed.

I hope these ideas will help you this spring when you start your first garden!
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Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Vegetable Gardening Tips At Your Backyard


Would it be possible for you to grow a vegetable garden at your backyard? Consider this option, healthy foods just within your reach. Even your children can help and cultivate their own vegetables. Having fun while learning is not a bad idea right? But you have to plan ahead before you start.

Which Veggie?
Plan which vegetables you would like to grow in your garden. Choose early, middle of the season and late kinds of these vegetables, which you like best.

Against all veggie odds
You have to know the odd characteristics of certain vegetables and use them to best advantage. Some vegetables bloom even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine.

Goodie veggies
Good vegetables are of exceptionally slow growth during the seedling stage of development. You have to take advantage of this by using space between rows for quick-growing crops. For example, propagate beet seed by middle of April and position young lettuce plants between the rows.

Don't let the water run dry
Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.

De-pest the infested
During the growing season be attentive against insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will make it much easier to take suitable action and get rid of the pests. But be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable have grown unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the used up vegetable matter into your fertilizer pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.

Animal appeal not needed
It is important to protect your vegetable garden. In most cases, the garden is surrounded by a fence adequately high and close-woven to keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during a season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.

Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work would pay off if necessary precaution has been made. Learning is a process, vegetable gardening needs time. See to it you have patience and dedication to it.
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Monday, February 11, 2008

Gardening in Small Spaces

An effective garden doesn’t mean it has to be huge and hold tons of plants. Not everyone has the space for a garden like that, but they can grow thriving plants in a small area as long as there’s access to sunlight.

Gardens have grown in many places - from a small patch of ground outside of a home to planting pots placed outside one’s front door. The size of your garden doesn’t matter because it’s the quality of your gardening skills that will provide you with thriving plants.

You’ll want to research the plants you want to grow within your garden. Find out what plants can be planted near each other, which ones need the most sunlight and any care instructions needed to grow a particular type of plant.

This will help you plan the placement of your garden, whether you plant in a small patch of land or in planters. Next, you’ll need to find out when each plant should be planted. Some need to be planted ahead of others, so plan accordingly.

Now you’re ready to purchase the plants or seeds, whichever you choose to grow in your garden. Make sure you have the right size planters for your garden if you go with gardening pots. The plants need some space to grow, so don’t overcrowd them.

Make sure you use top quality potting soil. Your plants could use the extra effort to provide them with the nutrients they need to grow and thrive. Your local gardening center can help you decide which soil would be best for you to use.

Even gardens grown in small areas will have problems with insects that feed on your plants, so make sure you purchase plants that are inviting to the insects that will keep the harmful ones under control so they won’t have time to destroy your garden.

Some fertilizing soil has ingredients mixed in that will help repel some of the pests, so check them out as well. If you feel you must use pesticides, use them sparingly. Most of these harmful chemicals can affect the plants as well as animals and children, so use only what’s absolutely necessary for your garden.

Every garden, no matter if it’s big or small, needs to be nurtured. Stay on top of the weeds, aerate the soil once in awhile and water as often as needed. No garden will thrive without the proper care and nurturing from the gardener, so don’t neglect them.

Small gardens can thrive just as much as larger ones, so if you don’t have the space for a big garden, just make use of the space you do have and grow healthy and robust plants. With the proper care, any garden can produce excellent plants.

Take the time to plan out your garden to use the best areas of the small space that you have. Your small garden could then outmatch any large one if you put forth your best effort and make it successful.
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Saturday, January 19, 2008

Decorating with Grass

Decorating with Grass


Grasses have a shifting beauty that's unmatched by other plants. With outlines and shapes that change not just from season to season, but from day to day and moment to moment, they are the favorites of contemporary and new wave garden designers who love to foreground change and drama in the garden. The Dutch designer Piet Oudolf is probably the best known; he recently designed the 9/11 memorial garden in New York City. His gardens mix perennials and grasses for year-round drama and structure, to produce landscapes that intensify and draw out the irregular harmony of a natural flowering meadow.

Grasses usually supply much of the structure, and also the drama, of these gardens, beginning in the spring when brightly colored new shoots emerge. By summer, they have become lush foliage, sometimes of a completely different color altogether. Flowers soon follow. Feathery or spiky, flat or round, they will turn into seed heads that continue to perform through the winter by dramatizing every change in the weather. Gardeners lucky enough to live in an area with frosts will be rewarded with living ice sculptures.

The aptly named Golden Dew (Descampsia cespitosa 'Goldtau') is just one of many grasses that puts on a spectacular show all year, making it ideal for the latest planting styles. In the summer, short evergreen foliage produces fountain-shaped sprays of delicate flowers, up to 29 inches (73 cm) tall, which turn golden every evening against the setting sun. At the end of the summer, seed-heads appear, which darken through the fall. The result is a haze of color that changes from hour to hour and season to season. Add perennials to the mix and their outlines will be softened too. Those with strong shapes work best. For example, Yarrow (Achillea) comes in many colors including red, yellow, gold and cream, and has striking plate-like flowers.

Grasses are versatile. They seem to be made for the latest planting styles, but they can be used in more traditional ways, too. To soften the edges of pathways and borders, for example, try low-growing grasses with arching stems that will hide hard edges. They come in many colors, including gold, silver, brown, orange, red and blue and just about every shade of green, so there should be no problem coordinating them with surrounding plants.

As a focal point in the garden, a large grass can be planted alone to draw the eye. For example, Stipa Gigantea, is an eye-catching grass that grows to 8 feet (250 cm). From arching dark green foliage, long thin sprays of gold oat-like flowers appear in summer. In winter, they are even more spectacular when covered with frost. This grass grows best in moist well-drained soil and full sun. For pots, try compact, colorful grasses with an arching manner that will hide the pot edges and create interest all year round. Try Hakonechloa macra. Grasses can be used for minimalist gardens, too. Large blocks of a single variety will create slabs of color and texture. Some grasses are great for flower arranging. For example, greater quaking grass (Briza maxima), has exquisite lamp-shaped flowers, which look wonderful in the garden or in a vase in the home.

Grasses may look fragile with their wispy stems and airy flowers, but they're among the toughest plants around. They'll grow in most soils and tolerate most conditions. Many are fully hardy. Be careful not to overfeed them, though, as they'll produce too much lush foliage and too few flowers. A single dressing in the spring is enough. To increase their number, divide them in the spring. Many grasses will seed themselves, but the resulting plants may not match the originals. Watch and wait, and then remove unattractive seedlings.

Grasses can be left to fend for themselves for most of the year, but they may need tidying up in the spring. Evergreen grasses won't recover if they're cut back; dead and untidy growth should be removed carefully by hand. Other grasses should not be cut back too soon as old growth protects the new. Watch out for rabbits, hares and other animals as new shoots emerge.

Take care where you plant large grasses such as Pampas Grass. They need a lot of space, and a small front yard or garden isn't enough. Be aware that in parts of California and other areas, this invasive plant has started to colonize areas where native flora used to grow, and gardeners have been urged not to grow it or spread the seed.

Grasses are living proof that there's more to gardening than flowers that just sit there from first bloom to fall, and perhaps that's why they've become so popular. They are also easy to grow and difficult to kill, which has got to be good for any garden plant.
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Friday, January 18, 2008

Creative Solutions: Yardscape with Borders and Walls


With a little imagination, you can easily re-work the landscape cards Mother Nature dealt you. Got a ho-hum yard? A flat rectangle lot with no individuality or character to speak of? Or just the opposite, with slopes that are hard to nurture and navigate?

Options range from low border walls - for trees, flower beds and vegetable gardens - to carving in retaining walls to level slopes and turn a wild landscape into usable patches of land.

Creative Solutions: Yardscape with Borders and Walls


Don't Sweat the Small Stuff

Low garden walls and borders for planters and visual interest are easy to construct. Materials range from brick, stone, wood and concrete block to specialty products and railroad ties.

  • Tip: Interlocking "look-like-stone" concrete blocks are easy to use, cost efficient and truly wall beautiful. A popular choice worth checking out.
  • Tip: Avoid "perimeter" design. Low walls that parallel barrier fencing on rectangular lots make yards seem smaller. Free form designs, diagonal corners, multi-level terraces and free-standing shapes in open areas are better.
  • Tip: Top edge of low walls makes great extra seating (15" to 18" high and at least 12" wide).
  • Tip: Dark oily "Creosote" on railroad ties rubs off on clothing or skin and may leach into soil. Use care. If plants and vegetables are nearby, add plastic liner as safety barrier.

Size Does Matter

As garden wall height reaches or exceeds about 24" they technically become retaining walls. Thus, planning requires more thought and execution a bit more know-how.

  • Tip: Keep DIY retaining walls to a 3' maximum. Beyond this height, most local building codes kick in, requiring engineering plans, building permits and inspections for safety.
  • Tip: Terrace a steep slope, with a number of 3' or less walls, rather than one large wall for the reason above. If a taller wall is in order, try not to exceed eye-level for optimum visual benefit. Multiple terraced levels (with a number of 5' walls) are better than creating "The Great Wall of Your-Place" neighborhood spectacle.

Purchasing Materials

There are formulas that help determine how much of anything you'll need - from bricks to concrete blocks. Know the measurements of your chosen building material and calculate needs based on your project dimensions.

While estimating seems complex, it's worth the effort - as buying too little or too much of anything wastes time, effort and money.

  • Tip: A handy little tool called ProjectCalc® makes it easy. This Feet-Inch-Fraction calculator is programmed with built-in solutions for hundreds of home projects; a few keystrokes determine material needs with pin-point accuracy. To estimate, enter project dimensions for square footage, hit "convert" and specific "type of material" buttons to learn number of bricks, blocks, board feet or cubic yards needed - add price per unit and total project cost is displayed. Easy as 1-2-3. It's typically priced under $20.00 at well stocked hardware stores and most home centers.
Yardscaping with imagination and garden walls is easy, when you work smart.
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Thursday, January 17, 2008

Create a Stylish, Sustainable Garden with Ornamental Grasses


If you need to conserve water, or you just want a garden that virtually takes care of itself, ornamental grasses will give you a beautiful garden without the hassle. There is such a huge variety of grasses available that you can create a whole garden with varied texture, colors and height using grasses alone.

You can even have a bit of a show, as some grass species produce feathery seed heads, known as plumes, and even flower in season.

A garden of ornamental grasses is the perfect choice for a modern, stylish home or a ranch style home where you don't want to spend a lot of time looking after the plants. You can also create an exotic look, with grasses from all over the world at your disposal.

The true grasses are members of the Gramineae family, and come in an abundance of different heights and colors. True ornamental grasses come mainly from the lily family, such as mondo and dianella. These are known as "strappy" grasses because of their thin, strap-like leaves.

Grasses like full sun and well drained soil, although you can find a wide variety of grasses suitable for any soil and weather conditions - they grow all over the world, after all. But if you want your grasses to look their best in your garden, prepare your soil as carefully as you would for flowers.

Grass should be pruned to allow for fresh growth in the spring, but if you prefer to have your grasses standing during the winter, you don't have to do this until early spring.

However, in the late fall, you can remove the plumes and dry them for crafts or home décor. Just cut them with long stalks, tie together in bunches and hang upside down in a cool place. Your dried plumes will look marvelous arranged in tall slender vases and will complement most decorating styles.

When shopping for grasses, look for natives, exotics and new varieties, and be sure to discuss with your nursery expert the best types to grow in your area. You are looking for plants that won't require a lot of attention or special conditions.

Among exotic varieties, Japanese silver grass is very popular for ornamental grass gardens, as it offers an outstanding display in the fall. This grass flowers with white, pink and light red blooms.

For an early green showing in spring, and a brilliant display of plumes later, choose a feather reed grass such as Karl Foerster; for brilliant color in the fall, look at the many varieties of switchback.

Don't overlook the traditional oats and barley, which look wonderful in clumps. A field of barley is such a spectacular sight that Sting even wrote a song about it!

The taller, more traditional grasses make magnificent backgrounds, but with some of the new varieties you can add splashes of color accent as well.

For a magnificent red display, try the new Japanese blood grass Red Baron, with its tall scarlet spikes; for a softer look reminiscent of a cottage garden, there is delicious Elijah-Blue, a new variety of blue fescue with foot long tufts springing out of a brilliant blue base like a firework display.

For sheer cuteness, Rabbit's Tail grass, with its puffy little white plumes, can't be beaten and it is easy to grow from seed.

Since grasses are hardy, you won't need to fuss with them or fertilize as you would with a flower garden. Just a quick scattering of some slow release fertilizer in spring will last all summer.

Mulching around the plants will keep weeds down and will prevent your grasses from reaching out and popping up in unexpected places. Like all plants, grasses should be well watered when they are first put in, but the beauty of a grass garden is that it can take a bit of healthy neglect, and will still look wonderful.
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Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Consider Color Schemes When Planning Your Landscape


There are several factors that determine the kind of emotional response we’ll have toward our backyard environments. These factors also influence someone else’s experience when they’re looking at our landscapes for the first time. The form and texture of trees, shrubs and plants (individually, and in respective clusters), the proportions of our flora in relation to the yard as a whole, the placement of features like fountains, ponds, stonework and paths - all these things work together to paint a picture that may or may not be pleasing to the eye.

garden landscape picture


Of all these various aesthetic concerns, however, the element that probably speaks most directly to the heart is color. Colors also tend to announce themselves to us before we even begin to perceive other qualities of a landscape like its balance and proportion. Color, in other words, is a tool that we can use to create both a first and also a lasting impression.

Having established this priority when planning our landscaping renovations, the next question is this: What kind of impression do we want to make? While we’re bound to have colors that are personal favorites, we need to consider the impact of the actual kinds we will use. Different hues affect our attention in different ways. Warm colors tend to feel present and close, for example, while cool colors like blues and grays tend to recede and create an impression of distance.

Colors will also differ in their affect upon our eyes depending on what surrounds them. We can create an impression of vibrancy and excitement by putting contrasting colors (like orange and blue, or red and green) side by side. A more soothing scene will be created by a wash of identical or similar colors. Oftentimes we do best with a combination of these two approaches, which will paint a visual image that is neither over-stimulating nor dull in its sameness.

Another matter for our consideration is seasonal changes. Foliage may or may not show consistent coloration throughout the year. Again, we will have to consider whether we prefer stability or variety; but in this case, we’re thinking about a span of time. Leaf-shedding trees will, of course, create more work for us when those leaves fall. But for those of us who love the vibrant reds, oranges and yellows of fall foliage, this extra labor may be a small price to pay.

It might be helpful to collect pictures of various trees and plants in different arrangements, from magazines and other sources, and experiment with collage combinations to help visualize the end results we desire. How pleasing are the color combinations in themselves? How well do they transition from one to the other? Having pictures in front of us can make our dream projects much more tangible.

Though form, proportion and scale are all equally important considerations in our landscape planning, our backyard environments will most likely make their first impressions with their color schemes. Creating an appealing outlay may require us to think like artists, with the landscape our canvas and flora our medium. It will then be our task to choose elements that complement each other visually, because they will help turn our landscape into a haven of beauty.
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Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Choosing the Right Grass for the Lawn


To those unfamiliar with the concept of landscaping and creating a beautiful outdoor environment, all grass looks the same. To those who know better, however, the right grass is an essential part of planning a beautiful lawn and exterior landscape. It is important to know which types of grasses to use to create just the right look and feel.

The color of the grass is an important consideration when it comes to creating the perfect landscape. Many homeowners crave the lush, dark green grass often found in the pages of home design magazines, but it is important to keep in mind that the look of a dark green lawn can be marred by the appearance of brighter shades of green interspersing.

If you crave that dark green lawn, but currently have a lighter shade of green, be sure to choose a well mixed home turf mix, and exercise some patience. The newly planted grass should soon take over and provide the look you are seeking.

Of course the variety of grass is an important consideration as well, but this is one decision that may be largely dictated by where you live. Consider the environment in which the lawn will be planted, including things like moisture, annual rainfall, average summer and winter temperature, and the like. It is important to choose a variety of grass that is suited to your environment. Fortunately, there are drought resistant grasses, moisture loving grasses and many varieties in between, making it easier than ever before to choose the perfect grass for a beautiful lawn.

The nature of the yard itself is an important consideration, especially if large parts of the landscape are in shadow much of the day. There are specific types of grasses designed to grow well in shadow, while others are able to withstand almost constant sunlight. Look at your current lawn and plant accordingly.

Of course planting the new lawn is only half the battle, and it is important to properly care for that newly planted grass. The lawn will be most at risk right after planting, so be sure to follow the maintenance schedule provided by the grass seed supplier when it comes to watering, fertilization and other care of the newly planted lawn. How you care for the lawn right after planting can have a profound impact on how well or how poorly the lawn grows.

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Monday, January 14, 2008

Best Low-Maintenance Alternatives for Landscapes


Just because everyone is not a gardening enthusiast does not mean everyone shouldn't have a terrific landscape. Many people simply can afford precious little time to mowing, digging, weeding, planting, etc., and all the chores associated with a great garden and landscape. The following suggestions are prime examples of low-maintenance ideas for landscapes without full-time gardeners!

Pave all your cares away; that is, all your gardening woes and blues. There's nothing like a layer of concrete to finish off those patches of crab grass once and for all. Concrete garden not your look? Well, concrete across your property is probably not the whole way to go. However, you can extend drives, patios and porches to encompass very large tracts of land that will no longer need landscaping. Consider stone, brick or even concrete - it can mimic the likes of granite these days making for a great and inexpensive paver.

Nevertheless, many non-gardeners still prefer an attractive green landscape. A low maintenance alternative to the headache of an attractive lawn is using a low-maintenance ornamental grass. Not only are these grasses enchanting, there are several that don't need to be mowed! Lawns are so typical anyway; an ornamental grass provides originality that is as attractive as any groundcover. Consider these low-maintenance grasses: hair sedge, Japanese sedge, palm sedge, love grass, blue fescue and velvet grass.

Adding garden structures is a great way to take up space and still provide visual appeal for the landscape. A garden shed makes a great outpost for the landscape that doubles as a storage center. Gazebos are not only attractive, but functional structures that make the ideal location for afternoon lunches or simply to relax. Once installed, garden features typically require only routine maintenance that may be performed annually.

A rock garden is a wonderful easy-to-maintain landscape. Choose large rocks and rock-loving plants. If alpine plants do not suit your climate, there are plenty of other choices for such a rock garden. Obviously mowing won't be an issue, yet you will still provide a rustic and lovely setting.

Another low-maintenance landscape could be accomplished with the cultivation of a prairie landscape, incorporating both native and easy-to-care for plants. Prairie gardens are not maintenance-free, but they do involve far less work than traditionally manicured gardens and yet still provide great character and beauty for the landscape.

Another time saving solution for landscapes can be had by installing sprinklers or drip alternatives to the setting. These can be linked to timers to deliver water to your entire garden and landscape without you ever having to drag out the hose. These units will cost some expense upfront, but depending on the size of your landscape, they may be an affordable option that provides uniform water delivery to the areas of your garden that need it most.

Careful plant selection will result in a low-maintenance landscape if you choose plants that are hardy and easy-to-care for. When choosing trees, be sure your selection is not only hardy, but clean. Willows are notoriously messy and even exquisite ornamental trees like magnolias need to be cleaned up after.

Climbing plants and vines are generally great growers that do not require too much fuss (cutting back from time to time) and provide visual appeal to any garden. As long as they have adequate support, they will usually be fine even if the soil tends to be on the poor side. Arches and arbors are attractive focal points for the landscape that lift the garden up off the ground.

Mulching is a great gardening technique that is not only beneficial for soil and plants (it helps retain moisture), but it significantly tamps down on weed growth. Consequently, less time must be set aside for weeding and soil and plants wind up healthier than ever. Mulch comes in a wide selection from degradable tree bark to more permanent white stone. Choose whatever works best for your landscape style.

Certainly hiring gardeners and landscapers is a low-maintenance alternative, but rather a costly one for the average residence. By employing some of these landscape alternatives, you may be able to perform low-maintenance gardening in a landscape that is just as beautiful as any other.
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Sunday, January 13, 2008

Alternative Landscapes for Challenging Terrain


Sometimes no matter how green a thumb you have, poor soil or the lay of the land - not to mention the climate - will simply not allow for the lush landscape you’ve always dreamed of. On the other hand, you may not have a green thumb or even wish for one - you want a landscape filled with plant alternatives like architectural features, patios, even ponds. It is possible to find landscaping solutions for botanically challenged settings that, nevertheless, create visually appealing scenes with a minimal use of plants and a reliance on alternative features.

garden landscape


Challenging terrain or an unenthusiastic gardener - it amounts to the same thing. You require a landscape that relies on some easy-to-maintain hardy plants that can be grown in your area, and features that have little to nothing to do with gardening. For example, instead of rolling hills of green vistas, you see a stretch of cobblestone, a sea of gravel. Landscaping with a minimal use of plants need not, however, be the barren wasteland one might envision. Landscaping with the following features may actually transform your scenery into an enjoyable place to relax and entertain.

First of all, few landscapes have nothing growing. Such places might be called deserts, might resemble the moon. So consider your climate: what grows naturally and what types of plants need minimal care. Generally speaking, you'll want to consider ornamental grasses for ground cover. Some require no mowing. Many grow in very poor conditions, even steep slopes. Ornamental grasses can bloom, grow low-to-the ground, grow shoulder-high, and boast interesting colors, textures and shapes. Also, there are hundreds of tough plants that may prove ideal for your conditions. Just adding a few of these to a hardscape may be all the greenery necessary for a beautiful scene and prove more visually interesting than ordinary lawns.

If the soil will not support plants, don’t purchase any plastic concoctions from the craft store yet. Consider containers for several hardy species. Containers are available in many sizes from large stone planters to tiny terracotta pots. Glazed earthenware or even rustic wood planters will allow you to incorporate plants into the setting that could not otherwise be used. A few well placed hanging baskets and large containers will add all the necessary charm needed for bricked patios, decks or paved courtyards. If the landscape is filled with hills and steep slopes, choose an ornamental grass like creeping phlox to cover the area.

Another alternative for the non-gardener is to carve out some space for an easy to care for ground cover, a large patio, a garden structure or two and let Mother Nature take care of the rest. A prairie or woodland scene has a rustic allure that even the most formal gardens can't always rival. If however, your lot is in the city, you can still add a touch of ground cover for effect and install a patio or deck with a few container plants. Your patio furniture and accessories will go a long way to creating an inviting situation.

Plants aside, there are other ways to build a breathtaking landscape - build, being the operative word. Architectural features can be as small as an arch or as grand as a pavilion. Installing patios either at ground level or raised should be considered along with enlarged porches, gazebos, pergolas for difficult gardening situations. Platforms and decks can be built right into slopes or atop one to overlook the valley below. Think how much more appealing a plain grass-filled yard might be with an alternative paving of cobblestone transforming it into a courtyard style patio.

Gazebos can be anything from simple open-air structures to elaborate brick and window models used for entertaining purposes. There are many styles to choose between, but any structure will add additional interest to the landscape as well as provide a place to entertain or enjoy the outdoors. A patio or deck has greater potential to take up space, or rather, to fill in your landscape and make it seem less bleak. Attach a pergola to an area of your patio and you very nearly have added an outdoor room to your home. Architectural features can be built from wood, stone or brick. Match them to the style of your home for a seamless look.

Another landscaping alternative could be to put in a large pond or another type of water feature. Water gardening requires considerable gardening maintenance, but a pond without pretensions - a clear body of water and nothing else - can still add stunning beauty to the landscape. Keeping the water healthy requires some upkeep, but no attractive landscapes are without some maintenance. Water is a great way to add life to a landscape. Encircle your pond with a paver or an easy-to-care for ground cover and you have a wonderful all-season landscape. For a small lot, consider a stone fountain surrounded by no-mow ornamental grass. Pools, basins and cascades are other water features to consider.

Finally, you can add variety to a flat dry space with rock. Pebbled pools and gravel streams can mimic the look of water. Arrangements of rocks and rock-loving plants will create height and variance and are very easy to maintain. A rocky landscape can be softened with some painted architectural features and use of colored stone. With the addition of some tall container plants and an attractive patio, this landscape can be a breathtaking alternative that is easy to care for.

While a rose garden has its special charm, roses aren’t for everyone. You do not have to be a great gardener to have a terrific landscape. By relying heavily on other features, you can make minimal use of plantings and still create a lovely setting for family and friends to enjoy.
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Saturday, January 12, 2008

Beginner's Guide to Xeriscapes



A Xeriscape is an area that has been specifically designed to withstand drought conditions and reduce water consumption. The term was developed (and trademarked) by the Denver Colorado Water Department in 1981 by joining xeros, the Greek word for dry, with landscape. It should not be confused with zeroscaping, which uses lots of rocks and only a few plants to create a landscape that requires little water. Xeriscapes uses native and water-efficient plants and then groups these plants together based on their water needs so they can be watered efficiently.

The practice of Xeriscape varies from region to region. However, basic principles are generally followed no matter where you live. The first thing you will need to decide is if you want to adjust your existing landscape to be more conservative of water or design and construct an entirely new landscape. Either way, you should analyze your yard and decide what areas will become arid zones, transition zones, and oasis zones. The three types of zones allow you to group plants together that have the same water requirements.

Arid zones should be farther from the house and high traffic areas. An arid zone will either be left in its natural state or planted with native and drought-tolerant plants. Transition zones will combine the drier areas with the more lush zones of your yard. This zone will take advantage of low and moderate water use plantings that need infrequent supplemental watering. Oasis zones should be nearer to the house where they can take advantage of rainfall runoff from the roofline and gutter downspouts.

Grass Options
Most people think that converting a yard to Xeriscape means that you have to get rid of all your grass. This is not true. When you Xeriscape, you reduce the amount of grass in your yard to only what you need and use. For areas where you want or need grass, you have two choices. Warm season grasses, such as buffalo grass and blue grama, are very water conservative but not very hardy under foot traffic. These grasses do not need as much water and are perfect in areas that do not get a lot of use, such as a sunny front lawn. Cool season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass, are much more tolerant to foot traffic, but require more water to stay green. Use cool season grasses in areas where your children or pets frequently play.

Reducing the amount of grass you have in your yard is also important. If you have heavily shaded areas, consider planting groundcover such as vinca or sweet woodruff that is more shade-tolerant than turf grass and requires less water. Replacing a steep slope or the area between the sidewalk and the street with drought-hardy plants, groundcovers or low-water perennials will not only save water but will eliminate troublesome mowing areas.

Irrigation
For areas of your yard that will require watering, it is best to install a drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation delivers water slowly at or near the surface of the soil. It can reduce water consumption as much as sixty percent when compared to sprinkler systems because it minimizes the quantity of water lost to runoff, wind, and evaporation. You can purchase installation kits for drip irrigation systems at most nurseries and garden centers.

If a drip irrigation system is not possible, then it is important that you understand how much water your sprinkler puts out. You can measure this by placing three identical empty cans at different places within the sprinkler's range. Turn on the sprinkler for fifteen minutes. Then, collect the water into one can and measure the depth with a ruler. Divide this number by three and you know the average amount of water your sprinkler delivers in fifteen minutes. Adjust your watering times accordingly.

Soil Care
If your soil is primarily clay or sand, you may need to amend it so it will absorb and retain moisture. Although clay soil retains moisture well, it is slow to absorb it. Clay soil also tends to be heavily compacted, which makes it difficult for plants to survive during a drought. Sandy soil is exactly the opposite. It drains well but does not retain moisture, which gives the roots little time to absorb the water. Either type of soil can be amended by adding organic materials, such as compost or manure. Soils are amended by blending the material at least six inches deep either by hand or with a rototiller.

You might want to consider having your soil tested for organic and nutrient content before adding any organic materials. This will ensure that you know what organic materials to add and help you choose the right plants for your soil. Testing kits can usually be found at your local nursery or home improvement store. If you do not want to hassle with amending your soil, you could consult with a horticulture expert and choose plants that will tolerate the type of soil in your yard.

Plant Types
The type of plants that you choose will depend upon where you live. Native plants are usually chosen because they are naturally capable of tolerating that climate, but those are not your only options. Plants from other areas of the world that are also drought-tolerant or live in similar climates can also be used. It is important to note that plants will only be drought tolerant once they have become established. This means more watering should be done the first year or two after planting to help the plants establish deep roots. You should also take care not to crowd plants, which would require them to compete for water. Annuals should be planted at least twelve inches apart, and perennials should be planted about eighteen to twenty-four inches apart.

Once you have everything planted, it is time to add mulch. Mulch is an essential part of a Xeriscape because it minimizes evaporation, reduces weed growth, and helps control erosion. You can either use organic or inorganic mulch.

Mulching
Organic mulch is wood-based. It helps improve the soil texture by decomposing over time, but this means that it will eventually need to be replaced. Organic mulch should be about three to four inches deep and should always be placed directly on top of the soil.

Inorganic mulch is stone-based. Because it usually retains heat, it should not be used in sunny areas. Inorganic mulch can be placed on the soil or over a weed barrier fabric about two to four inches deep. Never apply mulch over black plastic because the plastic does not allow for moisture and air to penetrate and will kill useful organisms in the soil.

The last step is to maintain your yard. Luckily, maintaining a Xeriscape is a lot easier than maintaining a regular yard. First, you spend much less time watering a Xeriscape. In addition, Xeriscapes usually have fewer problems with pests and disease and usually need less fertilizer. Using fewer pesticides and fertilizers is another benefit to both the environment and your pocketbook. This means that by having transforming your yard into a Xeriscape you get to save time, money, and the environment. Who could ask for more than that?

Xeriscapes are not only the latest trend in landscaping, they are becoming a necessity in many areas. Next time you go to a gas station, take notice how the drinking water they are selling inside is usually more expensive than the gasoline they are selling outside. Like gasoline, water needs to be conserved. A Xeriscape can be a beautiful and effective way of doing this.
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Onions and Pantyhose: The Link Between

The thought of storing your excess onions is one that can make any gardener a quivering mess. Why? Because you know that even after storing them in a cool, dry and dark pantry they're sure to still sprout or rot in a week or two. Keeping them for months or even a whole year is ludicrous.

But then one smart cookie read the storage directions on a bag they bought at the markets. And the tip? Store them in pantyhose. Of course!

It may seem a little absurd but the fashion accessory that women share a love/hate relationship with could just be the onion hanger of the century.

The idea is to start with a fresh pair of pantyhose that have been washed without chemicals. Once dried, each onion is placed into a leg pushing it right down into the bottom toes. Then a knot secures it in place and allows another to continue. Once the leg is full of onions, it's hung in the same pantry suspended from the roof space.

The benefits of doing this are numerous. First, the hose allow the air to circulate over the onions keeping molds and bacterias from starting their ravaging feast. Plus, the pantyhose can easily be suspended keeping them off limited shelf space and because a knot is tied between each onion, one can be readily chopped from the leg without disturbing the others.

Ingenious - wouldn't you agree?
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Thursday, January 10, 2008

March Gardening Tips

Look at what is blooming now! The Brunswick County Botanical Garden is starting to show some color. Our Saucer Magnolia is blooming and the forsythia in the woods has peaked. Some of our old bulbs are “poking” through the ground with promises of color soon. Our garden is under a lot of reconstruction as we are trying to obtain some nice collections to be put into the garden so that people can come out here to see examples of what to plant for out area. The garden of course is always changing as we try new things. We do have very ambitious plans for creating interest in the garden this year and we invite you to be a part of it.

SUCCESS in the GARDEN for March! Survival techniques for certain plants provide that they be dormant during harsh weather and that they grow and thrive during good weather. Problems arise when the weather becomes similar to springtime conditions and the plants respond by initiating new shoots, buds, leaves, flowers, etc.

Even in the winter months it is refreshing to see signs that spring is just around the corner with the early indicator plants such as the yellow flowering forsythia, the purplish pink saucer magnolia, the multicolored hyacinths, daffodils and crocus. These early blooming plants help to bring new life into our late winter landscapes and people also start thinking about spring and what they need to do for their landscapes.

What to Plant:
You may continue to plant larkspur, poppies, and dianthus. In mid-March plant coreopsis, cherry laurel and southern magnolia and vegetables such as: broccoli, beets, cauliflower, and cabbage. Containerized roses can be planted anytime between March and May. This is the beginning of the next best time to plant ornamental shrubs and trees.

What to Prune: Prune deciduous spring flowering shrubs after flowers fade; quince, spirea and forsythia all flower on old growth. Do not prune shrubs that haven't bloomed yet such as azaleas and Indian hawthorns. Prune roses before bud break. Toward the end of the month, prune freeze-damaged oleanders in Coastal regions. Heavy pruning and rejuvenation pruning of summer blooming shrubs can be done now. On Rabbiteye blueberry bushes, prune to maintain 6-9 branches per plant.

What to Fertilize: The winter has been cold and warm at times. Typically it is best to fertilize most ornamental plants around April 15. You may apply bulb fertilizers according to label directions after bulbs emerge. Wait on other ornamentals until April. If you have not already fertilized pecan, do so now at your earliest convenience.


March Garden Chores

1. If weeds have been a problem in your landscape beds, consider using an appropriate pre emergence herbicide. The timing is critical for good results....it needs to be in place before the weeds appear! One rule to remember: if you had weeds last year, expect a volunteer (bumper) crop in 2007.

2. Most pruning on rose bushes should be completed this month if you haven’t done so already.

3. There are numerous fruit trees that will fit into most landscapes. Be sure to locate them away from active people use areas. If you are in a small setting, consider using a dwarf cultivar. Be sure to plant a pollinator if necessary. You should also note that deer are attracted to fruit trees. If you are in a "deer zone", it is recommended to erect some type of fence around each tree. Electric fences work well in orchards but are not practical for homeowners with a limited amount of space.

4. Begin designing a perennial border. There are 20 25 very popular herbaceous perennials that are (almost) fool proof, for all areas of North Carolina. Prepare the beds by deep tilling and incorporation of plenty of compost and plant later in the spring.

5. Want to improve the looks of your landscape by 100%? Many landscapes would look better if a 3 4" layer of organic mulch was applied around the shrubs. Then take a square blade shovel and put a professional edge on the bed. Be sure to edge at least 18 24" out from the outer edge (dripzone) of the shrubs

6. Think about adding some garden sculpture to the landscape. Any number of birdbaths, gazing globes, wildlife or human figurines and statues can be found in garden centers and antique shops. If you don't believe this is the latest "style", just thumb through a few gardening magazines.

7. Although a severe case of spring fever makes a gardener do strange things, one temptation to resist is to work in the soil if it's wet. Think twice before you work in wet soil. Compaction problems are unforgiving.

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